Seoul Searching | Hey, Hongdae!

I fell in love with Hongdae the moment I stepped on the platform of Hongik University Station. The place was bustling with energy, and you'll get a feel of this as soon as you join the throng of people making their way out of exit 9. You'll literally rub elbows with strangers as you ascend the stairs to get to the main street. Take note that we visited on a Saturday, Hongdae's busiest, liveliest, most crowded day of the week.

Hongik University Station.

Once you escape the nightmare that is exit 9, you will be greeted by a warm and youthful, oftentimes artistic vibe. Hongdae, after all, is the home ground of Hongik University - one of the best art institutions in South Korea.

Little man ready to explore Hongdae!

More of our trip to Hongdae after the jump!

Unconventional Shopping in Seoul: Unique Markets and Boutiques

Seoul, the bustling capital of South Korea, is one of the shopping capitals of the world. Almost every major luxury brand in the world has a presence in Seoul, and the city is home to South Korea’s best and brightest designers. There are also up-and-coming brands showcased by Seoul’s trendiest boutiques.

Photo credit: Timothy Riles on Unsplash.

Seoul also has a number of unique and fascinating markets, neighborhoods, and shopping centers that are travel destinations themselves. Whether it’s a traditional shopping street or a mall made out of old shipping containers, there are some unorthodox places to get your retail therapy in. Regardless of whether you buy anything or not, these will be valuable travel experiences.

Exploring a massive city like Seoul requires a lot of energy to get around, especially if you’re trying to hit all the best shopping destinations in town. Finding a reliable place to drop the bags off for a few hours is a great way to lighten the load and keep your arms open for all the fresh finds you’ll discover in Seoul’s amazing boutiques.

Hongdae.

Hongdae

Known for its youthful clientele and artsy vibe, Hongdae is a must-visit destination for trendy travelers looking for a bespoke shopping experience. This neighborhood’s streets and alleyways are lined with indie boutiques, vintage stores, local designer shops, buzzy cafés, and everything else you’d expect from a hip neighborhood.

It’s one of the best places in Seoul to discover one-of-a-kind clothing, accessories, and handmade crafts. Hongdae is also famous for its lively street performances and underground music scene, making it a vibrant and creative shopping district. Tucked away near Hongik University, Hongdae’s main shopping area is easily reached by taking the subway (Line 2) to Hongik University Station. From there, it's a short walk to the best shopping stretches.

Photo credit: Ciaran O'Brien on Unsplash.

Myeongdong

Myeongdong is the city's premier shopping district. This bustling area is a haven for fashionistas and beauty enthusiasts, with an abundance of cosmetics shops, international brands, and some of Seoul’s most renowned boutiques. While it may be less distinctive than some of the more peculiar shopping destinations, Myeongdong is still a quintessential Seoul institution that international travelers should definitely experience.

The streets are lined with neon signs, creating a vibrant atmosphere that’s lively at night. Don't skip tasting some Korean street food while you shop! Myeongdong is located in the heart of Seoul and is easily accessible by public transportation or a short walk from other tourist hotspots.

Pink Pool Cafe.

Pink Pool Cafe

This one is right out of a Wes Anderson film… Combining (very niche) retail offerings with a quirky cafe setting, Pink Pool Cafe is a must-visit for lovers of the color pink. This entirely pastel cafe boasts a stunning pink interior with vibrant decor, including (you guessed it) pink furniture, walls, and even a pink billiards table. You can sip on a cup of coffee and indulge in pink-themed desserts while enjoying the whimsical ambiance and twee setting.

The cafe offers a selection of pink-themed merchandise for taking home a keepsake. Pink Pool Cafe is located in the bustling Hongdae shopping district, making it the perfect detour for a charming coffee or popping in for a quick Instagram pic.

Beaker.

Beaker

Beaker is a multi-brand concept store that carries a few different lines but maintains a cohesive aesthetic and feel. Beaker originated in the artsy Hongdae neighborhood and has since expanded to other locations in notable shopping destinations in Seoul, including Garosu-gil and Shinsegae Department Store. The primary location is in Hongdae, where you’ll find the largest layout and best selection.

What sets Beaker apart is its impeccably curated selection of cutting-edge fashion from both local and international designers. The boutique features a mix of contemporary streetwear and avant-garde pieces. To put it plainly, Beaker traffics in the hipster aesthetic. If you want to know what styles are “next,” this is the place to go. Beaker’s thoughtfully designed space also creates a vibey shopping experience, so it’s a joy to visit regardless of whether you buy anything or not.

Photo credit: Skyler W on Unsplash.

Insadong

For a traditional Korean shopping experience, exploring the Insadong neighborhood is like stepping back in time.

This historic district is known for its art galleries, antique shops, and traditional craft stores. You'll find unique Korean souvenirs, such as hanbok (traditional silk clothing), ceramics, calligraphy brushes, and hanji (traditional paper).

Regardless of your shopping aims, taking a leisurely stroll down the main street lined with quaint shops and tea houses is a great way to immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Korea. You can easily reach Insadong from the city center by subway Line 3. The best shopping streets are a quick walk from Anguk Station.

Photo credit: Hill Country Camera on Unsplash.

Common Ground

Located in the Gwangjin-gu district, Common Ground is easily the most unique shopping center in Seoul. This innovative complex is built entirely from repurposed shipping containers, giving it an industrial-chic aesthetic. Common Ground curates a selection of local designer boutiques, pop-up stores, and independent brands. It’s entirely aimed at attracting young and trendy shoppers, and it’s become a destination for international travelers looking for a fun place to find the best up-and-coming South Korean brands.

The clientele will be ultra-hip, given Beaker’s proximity to a local university, but it’s still an approachable and fun place to visit. Because the selection showcases independent smaller designers, the prices can vary from uber-cheap to very expensive. Common Ground is easy to get to, as it can be reached by taking the subway to Konkuk University Station. From there, it's a short walk. Just look for the cluster of blue shipping containers. You can’t miss it.

While it’s understandable that fashionistas will want to hit up Seoul’s many upscale fashion districts and boutiques during their visit, visiting one of these distinctive shopping destinations is a great way to explore Seoul fully. It offers an insight into Korean culture that can be both traditional and modern experiences. You might even run into your new favorite piece of clothing.

Foodie Goodie | Hongdae Hits!

Aside from its reputation of being the trendiest and most vibrant neighborhood in Seoul, Hongdae is also a treasure trove of delightful eats. From meat buffets to chicken joints, to cozy cafes and dessert shops, Hongdae has it all.

It's no secret that this youth-culture hub is one of my favorite places in Seoul, and I never miss the chance to visit this area whenever I'm in the country. I had all the more reasons to hie off to Hongdae during my most recent trip, as my friends who were also vacationing in Korea at that time were staying at AirBnBs within the district. Thanks to our 'mini reunion', I was able to discover these restaurants in Hongdae and enjoy good food while catching-up with the girls.

Gochangbok's Good Restaurant 착한 식당
If grilled meat is your thing, Hongdae is the perfect place to be. There's a so-called 'Meat Street' in the neighborhood where you'll find more than a dozen barbecue restaurants lined up in one area. We somehow ended up here while looking for a place to eat, mostly because my friend Ela had been craving for authentic samgyeopsal since she arrived in Korea.

One of the more prominent meat restaurants in the area is Gochangbok's Good Restaurant, which is especially popular among office workers. Thankfully, we came after the lunch crowd has dissipated and we had no trouble finding seats at the first floor of the building.

Gochangbok's Good Restaurant.

Both floors of the restaurant are usually packed after office hours.

We ordered samgyeopsal, of course, which was priced at 7900 won per serving. Ela ordered three servings (one for each of us), plus three bowls of rice (because rice is life, lol), and an extra soondubu jigae (silken tofu soup) for Maan.

Samgyeopsal! :)

Our orders came with side dishes such as acorn jelly soup, coleslaw, and lettuce salad. I especially enjoyed the coleslaw, and even helped myself to a refill at the salad bar in one corner of the restaurant. They also gave us a bowl of gyeran jjim (steamed egg) - soft, silky, and seasoned just right.

Coleslaw, Korean style.

No wonder this restaurant is such a hit among yuppies. Awesome food, great ambiance, budget-friendly price...Gochangbok truly lives up to its name of being a 'good restaurant'.

Address: 331-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
To get there, take Hongik University Station (Line 2), exit 8.

Chicken and Curry Goon 치킨앤 카레군
Next to fish, chicken is my son's most favorite protein in the world. And while there may be a proliferation of chicken restaurants in Seoul (there's bound to be one or two in every corner, lol), Yue's primary complaint is that they're too spicy for his taste. We almost always resort to McDonald's or Lotteria's Chicken Nuggets whenever he's in the mood for chicken, but we took a stab at this cute restaurant which we came across while walking along the streets of Hongdae.

Chicken and Curry Goon.

I was initially worried that they would not allow us to enter since most beer-serving restaurants do not allow kids in their establishments. However, the staff of Curry Chicken Goon were more than welcoming, and we were able to order without a hitch. Maybe because it was lunch time and none of the customers were having beer anyways? 

Chicken + Curry.

The chicken sets seem to be the more popular items on their menu, so we ordered the Onion Cream Chicken Set which comes with a salad, cheese fries, and more than a dozen pieces of fried chicken topped with heaps of onion slices. The serving is huge, and good for sharing between three people.

Onion Cream Chicken Set, 22800 won.

The servings are huge!

Even the salad is good for sharing.

Yue fell in love with the chicken at first bite. I did, too! Its crispy on the outside and flavorful all throughout (not just the skin, mind you), and best of all, it's not spicy! The fries were just as tasty - cheesy, creamy, with just the right crunch. The price isn't so bad either, considering you can feed a family of three with just one set.

Address: 164-11, Dongho-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
To get there, take Hongik University Station (Line 2), exit 9.

Deux Copains 듀꼬뱅

Nestled among the alleys of Donggyo-dong is this cozy neighborhood bakery called 'Deux Copains'. The name means 'two friends' in French, and this place is perfect for coffee dates or small, intimate gatherings with friends.

Deux Copains.

This is one of the very few places in Seoul that sells croissants, and I was pleasantly surprised that theirs taste the way a real French croissant should be - crumbly on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside, and 'ears' that are crispy, crunchy, and browned to perfection.

Croissants of all kinds.

One of the rare occasions that I ordered iced coffee - Caramel Latte, to be exact.
It was so damn hot that day!

Someone's having a blast. :)

Yue enjoyed their pastries, but he enjoyed the free wi-fi more, as this place was actually a Pokestop and had several gyms nearby. (If you're playing Pokemon Go, then you know what I'm talking about.) That being said, if you're the kind of person who likes to 'work' at coffee shops and need wi-fi to get your job done, drop by Deux Copains for croissants, coffee, and a nice and quiet working environment. 

Address: 204-58 Donggyo-dong Mapo-gu

To get there, take Hongik University (Line 2), exit 2.
Go straight to the Hyundai Gas Station on the right side, then go straight for 30 meters to the right from Porutua across the street. Go straight for about 100 meters after turning left at the Oriental medicine store.

Churro 101 츄로101
I've said it before, and I'll say it again - the churros from Churro 101 are the best in Korea, if not the world. This snack shop is the place I frequent the most whenever I'm in Hongdae (you can read all about it here and here), and I'm so glad my friends enjoyed their churros as much as I did.

Churro 101 is love! 

Churro 101 recently introduced new flavors to their menu, mostly green tea based because matcha is all the rage in Korea these days: Green Tea Chocolate, Green Tea Chocolate Almond Cherries, Green Tea Chocolate Strawberry Crunchy, and Green Tea Chocolate Coconut Citrus. However, my perennial favorite will always be the Deep Fried Oreo Churro.

Deep Fried Oreo Churro... yum! :)

Address: 346-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
To get there, take Hongik University Station (Line 2), exit 9.

Seoul Searching | Revisiting Hongdae: Trick Eye Museum + Cafe de One Piece.

Remember our trip to Hongdae last year and how this fun and funky neighborhood immediately and absolutely swept me off my feet? I was so enamored by this place that I made a resolve to bring my husband here the next time we visit Seoul. That plan finally pushed through last winter when we revisited Hongdae on New Year's Day. Our main agenda was to visit the Trick Eye Museum, as per Yue's request.

A 3D interactive gallery, the Trick Eye Museum first opened its doors in Hongdae in 2010. The museum features paintings that make use of the 'trompe l'oeil' (trick of the eye) technique, which gives 2-dimensional paintings the illusion of being in 3D.

Trick Eye Museum in Hongdae.

Everything in this museum is touchable, and guests can freely interact with the artworks and take photos to their hearts' content. Most of the paintings have sample pictures on how you should pose so that you can achieve the 3D illusion, and there are arrows and markers on where you should stand, sit, or lie down so that you can get the best shot.

Here are some of my favorite photos. As you can see, the boys had a blast posing with the paintings and Yue really enjoyed hamming it up for the camera. :)

Yue is trapped!

Hi ho Silver, away!

Surfing with winter coats on, haha!

More photos after the jump!

Seoul Searching | BT21 at Line Friends Store.

While walking along the streets of Hongdae, Yue and I came across a group of girls holding cute character balloons in their hands. Recognizing the characters right away, Yue gasped, "Mommy, it's BT21!!!" BT21 is a line of animated characters created by Kpop group BTS, in collaboration with Line Friends.

Just then, another group of girls - mostly foreigners this time - showed up, also with BT21 balloons in tow. "Where did they get those balloons?" I wondered, almost on the verge of asking one of the girls that we ran into. Before I could even unravel the mystery, Yue already figured it out, pointing at the huge Line Friends Store across the street.

Line Friends Store in Hongdae.

Almost every individual that walked out of the store had a BT21 balloon, and Yue wanted one for himself. Well, I wanted one, too - never mind if I'm already an ahjumma who's already in her late 30's. Lol.

BT21, the brain child of BTS in collaboration with Line Friends.

As we entered the store, I asked one of the staff how can I avail of the balloon. "Just buy anything, and we'll give you a balloon," he said. "Anything? Even a small item like that?" I asked, pointing to a Brown hair tie worth 5000 won. "Yes, anything!" he said with a smile. And with that, we made our way to the second floor to check out the BT21 goods.

Cute and cuddly pillows.

The BT21 characters were officially introduced in September last year, but it wasn't until December when Line Friends started selling BT21 merchandise. They were such a huge hit among BTS fans, that not even freezing winter temperatures could stop them from lining up in front of the Line Friends store to get their hands on BT21 items.

Yue with the BT21 gang!

He's standing beside his favorite character, Chimmy.

Thankfully, there was no pandemonium of that sort when we visited, nor did we have to fall in line to enter the store. Sure, the place was still crowded with shoppers (and I reckon most of them are BTS fans) but Yue and I were able to look around and take photos without a hitch.

Yue wanted them all, but baggage allowance does not permit, lol.

Kooky, Chimmy, and Mang.

RJ the alpaca.

Plushies!

Prices for the BT21 merchandise range from 2500 won to 55000 won. Plastic folders printed with BT21 characters were the cheapest, while black hooded sweatshirts with patches of Tata, Cooky, and Shooky were the most expensive. As far as I'm concerned, these items are still within the affordable price range, and if you're a hardcore BTS fan, the price really wouldn't matter anyway. Haha.

Passport cases, 12000 won each.

Tata is my favorite, because this represents V. :)

Yue and I finally settled on getting a gel pen, because that's the only thing we had a need for at that moment. Surprisingly, the staff gave us two balloons even if the Cooky pen that I bought (Tata was out of stock) only costs 3000 won!

En route to Digital Media City. Yes, we went all the way to DMC with those balloons, lol.

A few weeks later, we visited the Line Friends Store and Cafe in Itaewon. We were in the neighborhood to pick up the husband's sneakers at the Under Armour store and I asked the boys if we could swing by Line Friends because I wanted to see the cafe, which the Hongdae store did not have.

Line Friends Store and Cafe in Itaewon.

The cafe is located in the third floor, and their menu now includes BT21 drinks and desserts such as Chimmy's Pineapple Smoothie and Tata's Berry Sundae. We didn't get to try them though, as the place was packed (we went on a Sunday) and we wanted to eat at Dairy Queen anyway.

BT21 drinks and desserts.

The stairs leading to the third floor.

If you're a BTS fan, you'll find the Itaewon flagship store a lot more interesting since they have BTS memorabilia on display. For instance, these sketches of Koya by his creator, RM.

Koya by RM (also known as Kim Nam Joon).

And the statue of Space Robot Van, signed by all BTS members.

Signed statue of Space Robot Van.

In addition, the Itaewon store has more photo zones and carries more BT21 merchandise than its Hongdae counterpart. Now if you're an ARMY, I'm sure you won't leave either store empty-handed. We left Itaewon with another BT21 gel pen, lol.

Still no luck with Tata, huhu.

To get to the Hongdae Line Friends Store, take Hongik University Station (Line 2), exit 2.
To get to the Itaewon Line Friends Store and Cafe, take Itaewon Station (Line 6), exit 3.

Seoul Searching | Highlights of my Spring/Summer 2018 Trip.

I've finally unpacked everything from my luggage, sorted out my K-beauty haul, and transferred more than a thousand photos from my phone to my hard drive. It's been two weeks since we returned to the Philippines and now I can finally say that we've settled back in!

That being said, it's back to the daily grind for me, and I'm just about ready to blog about all of the places that we've been to and all the food that we had in this year's Seoul Searching trip. But first, let me share with you some snippets of our Korean adventure:

Meeting Edward Avila... and sitting next to him on the plane!
K-beauty vlogger Edward Avila was in Manila last May for a Meet and Greet organized by Club Clio Philippines. The event was scheduled the day before our flight to Korea, making it impossible for me to attend much as I wanted to. As I watched live videos of the event on Clio's Instagram, I was thinking that maybe, just maybe, I could chance upon Edward at the airport if he happens to be flying back to Korea on the same day that we were.

I got more than I wished for because lo and behold, as I was fastening Yue's seatbelt, a guy with silver purple ombre hair peeking out of his black baseball cap took the seat beside mine on the plane. I knew right then and there who he was.

Flying all the way to Incheon with THE Edward Avila.
AirAsia Premium Flex seats are the best seats in the house!

"Edward?" I asked, stifling the urge to scream.
"Yes?" he replied.
And I was like, "Ohmigod ohmigod ohmigod, it's really you!"
And then I started gushing about how sad I was that I couldn't make it to his event and how lucky I am to actually be flying all the way to Incheon with one of my favorite vloggers! Edward was very friendly and congenial, and we chatted for the most part of the flight - well, at least during the times when we were both awake. We even took photos together, even if I look like I haven't slept for a week, haha!

Catching-up with friends.
My childhood friend Ela and her partner Maan were in Korea for a few days, and I made it a point to meet up with them - because reunions are more fun in Korea, lol.

Samgyeopsal with Ela and Maan.

I went to Hongdae where the girls were staying, and we had a hearty meal of samgyeopsal at one of the local restaurants in the area, capped off with the best churros in the world for dessert.

Customary photo with Brown, this time in Hongdae!

We also did a bit of shopping - well, more like pimple patch hunting since Ela wanted to try those popular pimple patches. As such, we went searching for the ALand branch in Hongdae, because I know for a fact that COSRx products are sold in ALand stores. Ela loved the COSRx Pimple Patch so much that she regrets not buying more even when I told her to, lol.

Bonding with family.
Despite their busy schedule, Kuya JR (my husband's cousin) and his wife Youngsook unni took the time to spend the day with us, one fine Sunday in June. We had barbecue and soju at our favorite buffet restaurant, Meat-ing, as a celebration of sorts - post-anniversary celebration for us, and advance birthday celebration for Youngsook unni.

The boys. :)

Chill Sunday with Kuya JR and Youngsook unni.

Then we enjoyed the Seoul sunshine by exploring Kondae Rodeo, shopping for sneakers, and having coffee at Holly's.

Celebrating our tenth wedding anniversary.

Would you believe that for the past nine years, the husband and I have never celebrated our anniversary together? This is the main reason why I wanted to be in Korea in June - so that we can finally celebrate our anniversary together, in one country, under one roof. It's our tenth year of marriage, after all, and our fifteenth year as a couple. 

Mocha Cream Cake from Paris Baguette.

Our anniversary fell on a weekday so we only had a simple celebration at home with some pasta (which I cooked), a bit of wine, and a lovely cream cake that the husband bought at the nearby Paris Baguette. But on the Sunday a few days ahead of our anniversary, we did celebrate the occasion by hearing mass at Hyehwa Catholic Church and having lunch at Yoogane - because no trip to Korea would be complete without enjoying my all-time favorite dak galbi.

Celebrating Father's Day.

Similarly, this was our first time to celebrate Father's Day together. I wanted this day to be extra special for the husband so I went the extra mile to get him the Curry 5 sneakers in the colorway that he wanted. 

Shopping for sneakers at the Under Armour flagship store in Itaewon.

My boys who love 'sole searching'. :)

Many thanks to the staff of Under Armour Garosugil and Under Armour Itaewon for the excellent customer service! You guys are daebak! (You can read the full story on this Instagram post.)

Feeling the football fever.
It sure felt different to watch the World Cup in a country that's actually playing in the World Cup, and I was so glad to still be in Korea during their first two group stage matches. The entire country was in a very festive mood during that time, especially in the evenings when cheering parties were held in open spaces such as Gwanghwamun Square, City Hall, and the COEX Convention Center.

Street cheering/viewing party at Gwanghwamun Plaza. Photo credit: Korea Times.

K-Stadium at Lotte World Mall.

BTS x Coca Cola World Cup pop-up at COEX Mall.

Although it was sad that Korea's World Cup dreams ended in the group stage, they did bag the honor of being the only Asian country to beat Germany, champions of the 2014 World Cup.

As for me, Korea bags the honor of being the country that I have traveled to the most (five times in total), and I will never grow tired of visiting this country again and again. If only we could live here permanently, I would pack my bags and go even at a moment's notice!