Seoul Searching | What to Do in Seoul During Chuseok.

Chuseok 추석 is one of the biggest and most-awaited holidays in South Korea. Also known as the mid-autumn / harvest festival, Chuseok is the equivalent of Thanksgiving Day in America and is usually celebrated for three days. However, this year's Chuseok holiday will be observed for four days - from  Thursday (September 12) all the way 'til Sunday (September 15).

Chuseok is one of the few times of the year when Koreans take time off from work, travel to their respective hometowns to spend time with their families, and hold memorial services for their ancestors and deceased loved ones. Many business establishments will close down in observance of the holiday, so expect Seoul to be a bit more tranquil and peaceful during this time. However, there will still be a handful of places to visit and lots of things to do for the expats and tourists who will be coming to Korea during the Chuseok holiday.

Visit a heritage site. 
Korea is world-renowned for their cultural heritage sites, and a great number of them can be found in the Seoul metropolis.

One of the more popular heritage sites is Jongmyo Shrine, the royal shrine which houses the 'spirit tablets' of the deceased kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty. On regular days, visiting Jongmyo Shrine would require a reservation. But on Chuseok, the shrine will be open to the public, with free admission at that.

Ancestral rituals will be held at the shrine during the holiday, and visitors can get the chance to witness these first-hand.

Yue at the entrance to the main hall.

Jeongjeon, the main hall of Jongmyo Shrine.

Tour the Grand Palaces of Seoul.
Like Jongmyo Shrine, the Grand Palaces of Seoul will remain open during the Chuseok holiday, free of charge. However, you have to pay the regular rates should you wish to visit the Huwon (Secret Garden) in Changdeokgung or join the nighttime tour of Gyeongbokgung.

Changing of the guards at Deoksugung Palace.

Plenty of cultural experience programs await visitors during the Chuseok holiday. Musical performances and a tasting of royal tea and snacks will be held at Gyeongbokgung, while traditional mask dances and tightrope walking will be done at Changdeokgung. Musical performances will also take place at Changgyeonggung. Deoksugung, on the other hand, will present a re-creation of the welcoming ceremony for foreign envoys by Emperor Gojong of the Joseon era (1392-1910).

Get a great view of the city.
Standing 555 meters tall with 123 floors is the Lotte World Tower - the tallest building in Korea and the fifth tallest building in the world. This majestic tower houses galleries, cafés, and a luxury hotel, in addition to a skywalk and an observation deck.

Come on up to Seoul Sky!

Lotte World Tower.

The view from above.

Going all the way up to Seoul Sky is one of the best ways to get a clear, breathtaking view of the city. The cityscape becomes even more majestic by sundown, with the glittering city lights and all.

Check out a non-verbal performance.

Spice up your holiday by going to a cultural/musical performance. It doesn't matter if you're well-versed with Hangeul or not as these shows are non-verbal, and will only require tickets, your enthusiasm, and your attention.

The cast of Jump.
Photo credit: Jump official site.

If you're a martial arts enthusiast like me, you'll definitely enjoy 'Jump' an award-winning performance packed with humor, taekwondo, and other forms of martial arts. Since 2003, the show runs everyday at Myeongbo Art Hall in Jung District, Seoul

Another noteworthy non-verbal performance is 'Cooking Nanta', which runs everyday at Myeongdong Nanta Theatre and Hongdae Nanta Theatre. This show incorporates traditional percussion and humor , and has long been a popular staple since 1997.

Enjoy the great outdoors. 
Because most of the locals leave the city to travel to their hometowns during Chuseok, Seoul becomes less crowded and blissfully empty. This makes hiking trips more enjoyable and less stressful, and cycling routes become easier to navigate. Go on a bike ride along Han River, take a stroll at Seoul Forest, or if you're traveling with kids, take them to Seoul Grand Park for the Seoul Zoo Korean Thanksgiving Festival.

Autumn colors at Seoul Forest.

Seoul Grand Park.

Children's Park.

Chuseok jal bo nae sae yo! Have a wonderful Chuseok!
Here's hoping that you'll have many things to be thankful for this Thanksgiving. Enjoy the holidays!

Seoul Searching | Seodaemun Prison History Museum.

Today couldn't have been a more perfect time to write about Seodaemun Prison History Museum, and what we saw and experienced during our visit. Because on this day, exactly one hundred years ago, the March 1st Movement (Samiljeol) took place.

One of the earliest public demonstrations of Korean resistance during the Japanese occupation, Samiljeol was initiated by thirty-three core activists who came together at the Taehwa-gwan Restaurant in Seoul and announced the Korean Declaration of Independence.

They then took it to the streets where they were joined by many others, marching and shouting "Manse!" which means "long live Korea". As more and more people joined the procession, the Japanese officials panicked and asked the military forces to intervene. Many of the Korean protesters were arrested, but many more were killed. Apprehended activists were brought to Seodaemun Prison, where they were locked up, tortured, or worse - executed.

The entrance to Seodaemun Prison History Museum.
Ticket prices: 1500 Korean won for adults, 500 Korean won for kids.

Forcibly built during the Japanese occupation, construction of the prison began in 1907 and was completed the year after. The prison was opened on October 21, 1908, under the name of Gyeongsong Gamok. This name eventually went through a few more changes until 1923, when it finally became the name that we know today - Seodaemun Prison.

The Administration Building, used mainly for interrogations.
This now serves as the exhibition hall of Seodaemun Prison History Museum.

Uncovering the horrors of Seodaemun Prison... more secrets revealed after the jump!

Seoul Searching | What To Do in Seoul During Seollal.

Happy Lunar New Year!
Today marks the first day of the Seollal holiday in South Korea - a three-day event to celebrate the Lunar New Year. The Seollal holiday starts on the day before the Lunar New Year, and ends on the day after it. This year, the actual day of Seollal falls on a Tuesday, February 5; and with the weekend before it, Koreans get an extra two days to enjoy the Lunar New Year festivities.

One of the most important holidays in Korea, Seollal not only marks the passage into a new year, but also gives families the time and opportunity to bond, pay respect to their ancestors, and enjoy a bountiful meal. Majority of the business establishments in Korea are closed during this time (it's a national holiday, after all), but tourist attractions and destinations remain open to the public, hosting various events and cultural activities.

If you're in Korea for the Seollal holiday, here's a list of things to do and places to visit to make the most out of your Lunar New Year trip:

Join a Temple Stay Program.
In a Temple Stay Program, participants can experience Korean culture and immerse oneself in daily monastic life. To celebrate Seollal, various temples across the country will host special temple stays and offer Seollal-related activities such as playing traditional Korean games, commemorative rites for ancestors, and New Year's bow to the Buddha after the Buddhist service.

Bongeunsa Temple in Gangnam and Jogyesa Temple in Jongno are some of the temples in Seoul that host Temple Stay Programs.

Customary visit to Bongeunsa Temple whenever we're in Seoul.

Visit a Hanok/Folk Village.

A great way to learn more about Korean culture and experience how Koreans traditionally celebrate Seollal is by visiting a folk village or a hanok village.

The Korean Folk Village in Yongin welcomes the Lunar New Year with traditional activities such as jisinbalgi (praying for abundance through music), daljiptaeugi (sheaf burning/traditional campfire), eating tteokguk (sliced rice cake soup), and fortune-telling. Kids can also experience fun activities such as making kites, playing with tops, and even ice sledding when they visit the Korean Folk Village during this time of the year.

Meanwhile, the Namsangol Hanok Village is all set for the Year of the Pig, with a 6-meter inflatable pig standing tall (more like sitting, actually) in the cultural plaza. Musical performances, cultural plays, traditional games, and food festivals are all part of Namsangol Hanok Village's Seollal celebration.

Photo credit: Namsangol Hanok Village Facebook page

Explore the Grand Palaces of Seoul.

If you're a fan of Korean dramas, no trip to South Korea would be complete without visiting any (or all) of the royal palaces in Seoul. There are five of them in total - Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, and Gyeonghuigung, and all of them are located in central Seoul. 

Exploring the palaces is a great way to get to know the metropolis, learn about Korean history, and appreciate historical architecture. During the Seollal holiday, admission to the royal palaces will be free of charge. Visitors will also have the chance to participate in traditional rituals such as tea ceremonies, bowing before elders, and receiving saebaetdon (New Year's gift). Traditional games such as yutnori (traditional board game) jegichagi (hacky sack), and tuho (darts) are also included in this year's Seollal activities.

From L-R: Unhyeongung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Deoksugung Palace.

Visit a museum.

Seoul is home to a plethora of museums and galleries, which feature everything from South Korea's rich and eventful history to its present status, at the helm of innovation and technology. Some of the note-worthy, must-visit museums are the National Museum of Korea, the Seoul Museum of History, the National Folk Museum of Korea, and the War Memorial of Korea. 

The National Museum of Korea in Yongsan is currently hosting a special exhibition to commemorate the 1100th founding anniversary of Goryeo, the kingdom established by King Taejo. On display are paintings, celadons, sculptures, and craftworks dating back to as early as 918.

National Museum of Korea.

Also located in Yongsan is the War Memorial of Korea, a museum/national monument dedicated to Koreans and non-Koreans who sacrificed their lives during the Korean War. The museum houses more than 30,000 artifacts displayed in the indoor exhibition hall and at the outdoor exhibition area. Admission is free, and the War Memorial will be open throughout the Seollal holiday.

War Memorial of Korea.

On the other hand, the National Folk Museum of Korea will be hosting the 'Seol Grand Festival' for the Year of the Pig. The festival will kick-off on the day after Seollal with special musical performances, fortune-telling sessions, and traditional games. Arts and craft activities, food sampling, and fun activities for the kids are also included in the program. If you're born in the Year of the Pig, you'll even have a chance to receive a bokjumeoni (fortune pouch) as a New Year's gift.

Seoul Museum of History.

If calligraphy is your thing, head over to the Seoul Museum of History in Jongno for a special calligraphy event. Participants will have the opportunity to learn some calligraphy basics and write postcards as souvenirs or gifts for loved ones. Kids will also be treated to an afternoon of fun and games as they learn about Seollal traditions. 

One of the displays at the Seoul Museum of History.

Have fun at amusement parks. 

South Korea also has an impressive selection of theme parks, with Everland, Lotte World, and Seoul Land topping the list. All three theme parks are open all-year-round, and they offer special promos in celebration of the New Year.

Lotte World, for instance, has a special discount exclusive for foreigners. By simply presenting their passport or ARC (alien registration card), foreigners can get as much as 50% discount on passes to Lotte World.

Lotte World Adventure.

Aside from amusement parks, tourist attractions such as the COEX Aquarium, N Seoul Tower, and Seoullo 7017 will be open during the Seollal holiday period.

Sae-hae bok mani badeuseyo! 

May you receive many blessings this year, and hope you enjoy your Seollal holiday in South Korea!

Seoul Searching | A Gastronomic Adventure at Gwangjang Market.

Much as I love shopping at malls and department stores in Korea, and enjoy the hip and trendy vibe of the shopping streets in Hongdae, Kondae, and Sinsadong, I also love going to the traditional markets in Seoul. There's a certain charm to these traditional markets that make me want to visit them whenever I'm in the country - which is exactly what I did during my last visit to Korea.

Gwangjang Market.

Together with my friend Mel, who was also in Seoul for the weekend, we went on a 'very tita' date, starting with a tour of the Gwangjang Market. Located in the historical Jongno district in downtown Seoul, Gwangjang Market is the first permanent market in Korea and one of the oldest traditional markets in the country's capital. It was established in 1905 and spans a little over 10 acres with more than 5000 stalls selling a variety of items - fabric, clothing, souvenir items, fresh produce, and of course, food.

Stalls at the center of Gwangjang Market.

It was the food, mostly, that made me want to come here, and you gotta blame Running Man for that. If you've been following this blog for quite awhile and have been reading my Seoul Searching posts, then you probably know that most of the places that I've been to in Korea are either K-drama filming locations or have been featured in the world-famous variety show, Running Man.

This stall was featured on Running Man. :)

Gwangjang Market captured my attention after watching episode 186 of Running Man, wherein the cast members happily stuffed their faces with food as part of the challenge. And true enough, this place is a haven for foodies with stalls upon stalls of Korean street food cooked and prepared right before your eyes.

And that's the ahjumma who operates this stall.

The best way to enjoy Gwangjang Market is to come on an empty stomach. That way, you can try a variety of dishes and eat 'til you're full. If you're a light eater, I suggest you bring a friend (or a loved one) along because hey, good food is meant to be shared. :)

Just another busy day at Gwangjang Market.

Mel and I ordered a serving of jeon (Korean vegetable pancake) for sharing, and the taste was absolutely unforgettable. It was extra crispy on the outside and soft and mushy on the inside. It came with a dipping sauce made with soy sauce, vinegar, and freshly-cut onions, which elevated the flavor of this humble yet extremely yummy dish.

Vegetable pancake, 4000 won.

The ahjumma who owns the stall offered us makgeolli, saying that jeon is best paired with their traditional rice wine. But since we are very 'wholesome titas' (lol), we politely declined and instead bought fruit smoothies at a different stall.

Fresh fruit, ready to be blended.

Another must-try dish at Gwangjang Market is the mayak gimbap which literally translates into 'narcotic rice rolls'. Narcotic in the sense that this food is super addictive! These rice rolls are made with pickled vegetables, rolled on a bed of rice and dried seaweed (gim). They are then brushed with sesame oil and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds, which I reckon is where the addicting taste comes from.

Mayak Gimbap, 1000 won per roll.

If you're a bit more adventurous with food, perhaps you should try the soondae - blood sausage made with pig intestines mixed with sweet potato vermicelli noodles and sticky rice. I didn't try this, but Mel has had a taste of it on her previous Korea trip and she said it was good. Surprisingly, we saw a lot of foreign tourists ordering this at the nearby stall and seemed to be satisfied with it.

Soondae, anyone?

Other interesting food options at the Gwangjang Market are sannakji (live octopus), yukhoe (raw beef tartare), and the sea penis, a type of marine spoon worm, which is usually eaten raw and dipped in an array of spices. Sounds nasty, I know.

A huge basin of sea penis.

If banchan (side dishes) are more to your liking, you'll also find plenty of them in this bustling market. I'm not familiar with all of them, but I do know there are marinated crabs and spiced pork and kimchi in this spread of food.

Lots of side dishes to choose from!

Marinated crabs.

An assortment of kimchi.

Fruits, nuts, beans, and dried fish are also a common sight at the Gwangjang Market. Some stores also sell yakgwa (Korean cookies) which come in lovely gift boxes. They make nice presents for friends and family back home.

Yakgwa sold in boxed sets. 

Speaking of presents, Gwangjang Market is also famous for its hanbok shops, housed mostly on the second floor. Here, you can buy ready-to-wear hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) or have them tailored to your liking. Fabrics, bed sheets, jewelries and accessories, as well as various souvenir items can also be found on the second floor.

Hanbok shops on the second floor.

If you want to experience authentic Korean street food and culture under one roof, then Gwangjang Market is the place to be. Most of the stores operate on a daily basis from 8:30 am to 6 pm. Some restaurants are open until 11 pm, while some stores are closed on Sundays. 

To get to Gwangjang Market, take the subway to Jongno 5-ga Station Exit 8 or Euljiro 4-ga Station Exit 4.

You can also ride the Green Bus numbered 111, 2014, 2112, or 7212 and alight at the Jongno 5-ga bus stop.

Seoul Searching | Namsangol Hanok Village.

Somewhere along my decade-long obsession with Korean dramas, I have developed a penchant for the hanok - the traditional Korean house. An embodiment of Korea's rich and flourishing culture, the hanok is fascinating from an architectural standpoint and gives a homey, nostalgic vibe to onlookers and passers-by. Deeply enamored by this tangible cultural heritage, I make it a point to visit Bukchon whenever I'm in Seoul. It's a residential area within the vicinity of the four grand palaces where you can find a large concentration of hanoks, all well-maintained and beautifully preserved.

On the north side of Namsan Mountain, in the central district of Jung-gu, lies another village with opulent hanoks restored to mint condition. The place is called 'Namsangol Hanok Village', and we had the chance to tour the area last spring.

Welcome to Namsangol Hanok Village!

The village features five traditional Korean houses from the Joseon Dynasty recovered from different parts of the city. The structures were then relocated to the foot of Namsan Mountain to recreate an old hanok village. In 1998, the Namsangol Hanok Village was opened to the public and has since become a popular tourist destination.

Virtual tour of Namsangol Hanok Village after the jump!

Seoul Searching | Jongmyo Shrine.

Filial piety, they say, is one of the most important virtues and possibly the greatest heritage of South Korea. It means the attitude of obedience, care, and devotion towards one's parents and ancestors, and this virtue is clearly manifested in Jongmyo Shrine, the oldest and most authentic Confucian royal shrine to have been preserved.

The UNESCO World Heritage marker located near the main road.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jongmyo is known as the supreme state shrine as it houses the 'spirit tablets' of the deceased kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty. The shrine has existed in its present form since the 16th century, conserving not only its physical form but also the traditional ritual practices of paying tribute to their ancestors and honoring the dead.

The path leading to the gate of Jongmyo Shrine.

More of Jongmyo Shrine after the jump!

Seoul Searching | Seoul Museum of History.

My family and I are such huge museum fans. We love museums so much that we make it a point to visit one or two in the places that we travel to. In Korea alone, we've been to a dozen different museums - but that's just a small fraction of the total number of museums and galleries in this culture rich country. (Korea has over 500 museums throughout the nation.)

Last spring, we had the chance to visit yet another museum in the capital - the Seoul Museum of History, located in the bustling Jongno district.

Seoul Museum of History.

Opened to the public in 2002, the Seoul Museum of History was established to provide visitors an in-depth knowledge of the city of Seoul through interesting and meaningful exhibitions. The main exhibition hall, located on the third floor, charts the history of Seoul since the Joseon dynasty.

Seoul during the Joseon era, a diorama.

More of Seoul Museum of History after the jump!

Seoul Searching | Unhyeongung Palace + Goblin's House!

When we arrived in Korea last week, the first thing we did (after catching up on much-needed sleep) was go to Unhyeongung Palace. If you're a Kdrama fan, then you'll probably understand why this place is at the top of my spring itinerary.

The palace, located within the vicinity of Insadong, was a filming location for the hit drama Goblin, which starred Gong Yoo. We did not have the chance to visit this place last winter, during the height of Goblin's popularity, so I made it a point to stop by the next time we come to Korea. And we did, last Tuesday. Unhyeongung Palace was actually our first stop, then Insadong, and afterwards Jogyesa Temple.

The entrance to Unhyeongung Palace.

To Goblin's House we go!

More of our adventures after the jump!

Seoul Searching | Jogyesa Temple.

Buddha's birthday is one of the most important holidays in South Korea and is celebrated according to the lunar calendar. It usually falls on the eight day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar, and this year, Buddha's birthday is today, May 3rd.

Last year, Yue and I had the chance to experience the festivities of this important Korean holiday during our first visit to Bongeunsa Temple. This year, we chose to visit another Buddhist temple in Seoul - the Jogyesa Temple, located just a few meters away from Insadong.

Iljumun - the one pillar gate of the Jogyesa Temple.

Temple run!

More of Jogyesa Temple after the jump!

Seoul Searching | Deoksugung Palace.

As I have failed to witness the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony during my previous trips to South Korea, I made it a priority to visit Deoksugung Palace this time around. My son and I trooped to Deoksugung on our first Saturday here in Seoul (the week before Christmas Eve), and luckily, we were able to catch the 3:30 pm schedule of the ceremony.

We meet again, Deoksugung Palace!
This is Daehanmun Gate, the main gate of the palace.

Held thrice a day everyday (except Mondays when the palace is closed to the public), the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony is a great opportunity to experience a rare traditional scene. The ceremony is quite similar to Buckingham Palace's Changing of the Guards, with the same colorful spectacle and gallant pageantry.

Yue with the guards, prior to the ceremony.

Patiently waiting for the ceremony to start.

The ceremony begins with the entire troop matching towards the gate, together with a musical accompaniment. The guards's splendid costumes, complete with weapons such as swords and bows and arrows, and the use of traditional musical instruments, are a sight to behold.

Marching towards the gate.

Musicians with traditional musical instruments.

The guards, with their weapons.

Everybody in position.

Supervised by a government official, the guards exchange passwords for verification. An eight-minute guard ceremony comes next, followed by a seven-minute change ceremony, and then capped by a closing march or the so-called 'patrol'.

Password verification.

Guard ceremony.

Change ceremony.

Towards the end of the ceremony, the palace staff removed the ropes that cordoned the ceremony area and ushered us spectators towards the guards for photo ops. Yue, who was so impressed by the ceremony, became even more excited when he heard that he can take photos with the royal guards.

This man was very friendly, he called Yue towards him and said 'Here, picture!"

Who's your granddaddy? :)

FIERCE!

Everybody with their game faces on.

He was the only guy in the troop who smiled for the camera. :)

I think Yue has found a new profession. Haha!

Yue and the Royal Guards.

The ceremony, which lasts for more or less thirty minutes, is a must-see for tourists. Here's a snippet, just to give you an idea of how awesome this experience was. 

And no, you do not need to buy tickets to watch this performance. You will only need tickets if you wish to enter the palace grounds, which we did. 

Yue in the Palace (again)!

Compared to Gyeongbokgung Palace, Deoksugung Palace has cheaper admission rates - 1000 won for adults and 500 won for kids. Guided tours are also available, with English tours scheduled twice a day.

Inside Deoksugung Palace after the jump!